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Roubaud’s panorama is one of the few survivors of a genre that was the summit of 19th-century visual culture and has almost entirely vanished. The value lies in the machinery of the spectacle, not in the subject: this is how people looked before cinema.
Franz Roubaud’s Borodino panorama of 1912: 115 metres of canvas in the round, 15 metres high. Next door, the Kutuzov hut where on 1 September 1812 the council of war decided to abandon Moscow.
7.2 km from here· Kutuzovsky Prospekt 38, bldg 1 ··
The Church of the Ascension of 1532 is the first stone tented church in Russia and the only building in Moscow on the World Heritage list. The tent here is structure and not ornament, and sixteenth-century Russian architecture cannot be understood without having stood under it. The rest is a museum reserve with a middling collection: icons, tiles, manuscripts, wooden buildings brought from the North. And one warning: the palace of Alexei Mikhailovich shown in every photograph is a 2010 replica put up elsewhere in the park; it should not be confused with the real Kolomenskoye.
The Church of the Ascension, 1532. The Church of the Beheading of St John the Baptist at Dyakovo, sixteenth century, usually empty. The Front Gate with its display. Peter the Great’s cabin, brought from Arkhangelsk. Tiles and icons in the reserve’s exhibitions.
The garden was laid out in 1951 together with the new university buildings on the Lenin Hills, and it is kept as a collection: every holding has its name, its count of varieties and its year. The flowering part by the gate is open to walk through on your own — lilacs, irises, roses, peonies, perennials. There are more than two hundred and fifty varieties of lilac here and about seven hundred irises; the tree peonies were bred in the university itself. Every plant here has its own name and its own provenance.
Lilacs: more than two hundred and fifty varieties, Russian and foreign; the display plot was laid out in 1974. Irises — about seven hundred, from bearded to bulbous. Roses, more than two hundred varieties. Peonies, more than three hundred, among them tree peonies bred in the university itself. Daylilies, about two hundred varieties, from the old ones to the present.
A memorial rather than a collection: its strength is the scale of the spectacle and the Hall of Remembrance, not the originals. By museum standards it is average, and you should know that before going.
The Hall of Glory and the Hall of Remembrance and Sorrow; six dioramas of the decisive battles; the open-air park of military hardware.
8.3 km from here· Pobedy Square 3 ··
· No. 29
5 museums have no point set. They are not in this count.